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The Evolution of Fashion Week: A Shift Towards Sustainability
Fashion week is synonymous with innovation and excitement, drawing attention from around the globe. However, the extensive travel between major fashion capitals such as New York, London, Milan, and Paris comes at a significant environmental cost. The carbon footprint generated by these events, along with the waste produced from single-use items, raises serious sustainability concerns. Recently, there has been a noticeable trend towards more environmentally conscious practices within this vibrant industry.
Secondhand Fashion Takes Center Stage
During the spring/summer 2025 showcases in September, eBay made headlines by organizing two secondhand runway shows—one in London and another in New York. Models showcased previously owned designer pieces including tartan skirts from Chopova Lowena and handbags from Mulberry. These events were streamed live for audiences worldwide, allowing viewers to purchase items immediately after they appeared on stage. “By featuring pre-loved fashion on the runway, we aim to reshape what is considered aspirational,” stated Kirsty Keoghan, eBay’s global fashion general manager. Notably, last year saw approximately £40 billion worth of luxury secondhand goods sold through their platform; additionally, 66% of Gen Z consumers now prioritize buying secondhand clothing.
A Broader Movement Towards Eco-Consciousness
This initiative is part of a larger movement among organizations aiming to promote climate awareness through fashion platforms. During London Fashion Week’s off-schedule events,Oxfam collaborated with Vinted to host their own secondhand runway show while an east London project called Fuck Fast Fashion organized exhibitions featuring over 20 vintage sellers in public spaces. Earlier this year in Chile’s Atacama Desert—home to one of the largest textile waste dumps globally—activists joined forces for a catwalk event aimed at raising awareness about textile pollution.
Copenhagen Fashion Week has also taken significant steps by implementing a Sustainability Action Plan. This plan mandates that participating designers adhere to specific guidelines that include banning virgin fur and limiting single-use materials.
Redefining Seasonal Trends Through Sustainable Practices
London-based artist and designer Helen Kirkum, known for her creations made from post-consumer waste like trainers and handbags hosted an intimate dinner during September’s shows aimed at fostering dialogue around sustainability during this pivotal time in fashion. “The concept of seasons serves merely as a marketing tool for brands,” she remarked when speaking with Refinery29 about consumer behavior regarding clothing transitions throughout the year.
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A Gathering for Change in Fashion
The recent event hosted by Kirkum successfully united a diverse group of fashion professionals, including journalists, brand owners, buyers, and investors. This gathering aimed to foster a sense of community and facilitate meaningful discussions on critical issues within the fashion industry—something that has always been at the heart of her brand’s mission.
Telling Stories Through Sustainable Practices
Kirkum emphasizes that their philosophy revolves around utilizing products to narrate stories about pressing challenges in fashion while creating desirable items from non-new materials. “Our ethos is always about how we can use our products to help tell stories about the issues within fashion,” she explains.
Innovative Approaches to Fashion Month
Lydia Bolton, an upcycling designer present at Kirkum’s dinner, advocates for a shift away from conventional show formats during Fashion Month. She believes these traditional methods consume excessive energy and resources, leading to significant emissions and waste. During the week’s events, she also organized a workshop focused on crafting bag charms from scrap textiles inspired by Oxfam’s well-known Secondhand September initiative.
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A Shift Towards Sustainability in Fashion Design
“We can adopt a more sustainable perspective towards clothing when we understand the time it takes to create them and the processes involved,” Bolton states. “It’s encouraging to see sustainability being integrated into fashion week as it deserves equal representation.”
Notably, brands that previously did not prioritize sustainability are now incorporating these values into their seasonal collections. For instance, Cristian Siriano showcased designs made from recycled textile waste in New York City while Versace introduced brooches crafted from repurposed plastic bottles during Milan Fashion Week. Additionally, Rokh created floral appliqués using shredded deadstock materials.
The Future of Fashion Weeks
Kirkum reflects on her expectations for future events stating that while there is certainly room for traditional fashion weeks, she seeks inspiration through innovative materials and sustainable practices rather than merely new silhouettes.
The reality remains that fashion constitutes a multibillion-dollar industry facing scrutiny as creators challenge established norms and advocate for essential shifts in mindset regarding sustainability. As another cycle of Fashion Month concludes,the future is unfolding before us.
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